Savannah is a city layered in history, from the ballast stones that line River Street to the distinct stories behind its 22 squares. In a city as beautiful as Savannah, one can forget that life was not always easy for many of its residents. During my visit to Savannah, I felt it was important to learn about the enslaved people whose labor created Savannah’s wealth and who built many of its beautiful structures. Visiting First African Baptist Church, the oldest Black congregation in the country, is a powerful way to explore Savannah’s Black history and learn about this resilient community.
History of First African Baptist Church
The congregation of First African Baptist Church was founded before America became a country. An enslaved man named Reverend George Liele formed the congregation in 1773, and it is thought to be the oldest African-American congregation in North America. Although Liele was freed before the American Revolution, he feared being re-enslaved and evacuated to Jamaica.
Reverend Andrew Bryan continued Liele’s work despite laws forbidding ministering to enslaved people under threat of violence and jail. The congregation built the first Black church in Georgia in 1794 and built a wooden church on today’s Montgomery Street lot in 1832. The church you see today was built by many of the congregation’s enslaved members and was completed in 1859. After a long day of toiling on plantations, these enslaved members continued working at night to build their church. It’s humbling to stand in the First African Baptist Church and admire their work today, a testament to their devotion to their faith and community.
During the Civil War, Deacon March Haynes served on the Union side and was active in the Underground Railroad. It is believed that the First African Baptist Church was a stop on the Underground Railroad. In the era of segregation, the church served as a gathering place. Martin Luther King Jr. gave an early version of his “I Have a Dream” speech at the church. The First African Baptist Church is a National Historic Landmark recognizing its incredible history.
Inside America’s Oldest Black Church
Today, First African Baptist Church still stands proudly on Franklin Square. After passing through the bright red doors and entering the nave you’ll notice the church’s most striking feature—its stained glass windows. The colorful windows trace the church’s history by featuring the faces of its ministers over the years.
You’ll start the tour by sitting on one of the handsome oak pews dating to the early 1900s as the guide shares the moving story of the nation’s first Black church. The congregation’s work is all around you. The original chandeliers and sconces glow, the baptismal font is original, and the pipe organ dates to 1834. The pews in the balcony were made by enslaved people who built the church—a moving link to the past and a reminder that working for human rights and equity in our communities is never done.
Next, you’ll head downstairs to the office and meeting space. Here you can view photographs and other artifacts from the church’s history. You’ll notice that some of the wood floors are punctured with holes in a diamond and cross pattern. This is an African prayer symbol known as a BaKongo Cosmogram, which represents birth, life, death, and rebirth.
How to Visit First African Baptist Church
If you want to visit First African Baptist Church and experience its powerful history firsthand you can book a guided tour on the church’s website. The church offers tours on Monday through Thursday at 1 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.
You can purchase a tour ticket at the door, but I recommend buying your ticket online in advance as the popular tours often sell out. Tour tickets cost $15 for adults and $12 for seniors, military, and students. Be sure to arrive ten minutes before the scheduled tour time.
A member of the First African Baptist Church will guide you through the church’s nave and downstairs while sharing stories from the congregation’s history. You’ll also learn about the church’s work with George Leile Visions, a nonprofit dedicated to meeting the physical, social, and psychological needs of impoverished people in Savannah. The tour lasts about one hour.
Where to Stay in Savannah
When I visited Savannah I stayed at the Inn on West Liberty, a charming bed and breakfast in the city’s historic district. It was an easy 14-minute walk to the church from my B&B. If you’re looking for an even closer hotel, try the trendy JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District (5-minute walk) located in a former power plant or the boutique River Street Inn in a restored cotton warehouse (10-minute walk). This tool can help you check hotel and home rental rates near the church.
Impact of Visiting First African Baptist Church
If you’re planning a visit to Savannah, I recommend that you take a tour of First African Baptist Church. The church is a city landmark, and the story of its congregation is integral to Savannah’s history. I was moved to stand in this space that the community built themselves and learn how the congregation’s work continues today.
Please note that this post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission for my honest recommendations, at no additional cost to you.
First African Baptist Church
23 Montgomery St.
Savannah, GA 31401
Sources
Bozeman, Summer. “This Savannah Congregation Is Older than the United States.” Visit Savannah.
“First African Baptist Church.” Visit Savannah.
“The Oldest Black Church in North America First African Baptist Church.” History, First African Baptist Church.
Jessica Mlinaric founded Urban Explorer in 2010 to inspire curious travelers by highlighting history, culture, and hidden gems in Chicago and beyond. She is the author of ‘Secret Chicago’ and ‘Chicago Scavenger.’ Jessica has visited 20+ countries and 30+ U.S. states. She has more than 16 years of experience as a marketing strategist and works as a freelance writer and photographer.