The Chesapeake Bay is dotted with lighthouses, 33 to be exact, that have guided boats to safe harbor for generations. The Old Cape Henry Lighthouse in Virginia Beach is one of America’s oldest. Located on an active military base, it’s an unusual historic site to tour. In addition to offering sweeping ocean views, Cape Henry also marks some of the most important events in early American history- from America’s first permanent English settlers to a decisive Revolutionary War battle.
Old Cape Henry
The Old Cape Henry Lighthouse has the distinction of being America’s first federal works project. The Chesapeake Bay shipping corridor has long been of strategic importance to trade. Before the lighthouse was erected, 57 ships wrecked off the shores of the cape. It was clear that a lighthouse was needed to keep ships safe.
Built in 1792, the project was completed under the direction of George Washington and Alexander Hamilton. Architect John McComb Jr. chose an octagonal tower design due to its strength. The tower was built of light brown sandstone rising 90 feet into the air above the blowing sand dunes. An internal wooden staircase led up to a viewing platform where an oil-burning lamp shone across the water.
The lighthouse has undergone many physical changes over the centuries. In 1867 the original wooden stairs were replaced with a cast iron spiral staircase. In 2019, the tower was reopened to the public after a seven-month restoration project to stabilize the dune and the lighthouse base. The $1.1 million project will help protect the lighthouse from erosion. The restoration also included upgrades to the pedestrian area around the base including new brick pavers, interpretive signs, viewfinders, new stairs, a seat wall, and a compass rose.
“Cape Henry Lighthouse’s importance to this nation’s history and future is reflected in the collaborative efforts that went into this preservation effort,” said Jennifer Hurst-Wender, director of museum operations and education for Preservation Virginia.
New Cape Henry
When I asked if the black and white striped tower across the street was the new lighthouse, a tour guide replied, “New is relative.” The lighthouse was built in 1881 after the old Cape Henry Lighthouse protected the Chesapeake Bay for nearly a century. The cast iron structure was erected just 350 feet from the original lighthouse. At 165 feet tall, it’s nearly double the height of the old lighthouse. It also emitted more light and could be seen 19 miles offshore.
For decades, a keeper lived onsite to tend the lighthouse. Most of the facilities located next to the “new” lighthouse are the original buildings. In 1939, the U. S. Coast Guard took over operation of all lighthouses in the country. In 1983, the new Cape Henry Lighthouse was fully automated.
The First Landing of Jamestown
Most people remember from history class that Jamestown was the first permanent English settlement in North America. However, the settlers’ first steps in North America weren’t at Jamestown, but at Cape Henry.
In April of 1607, Captain Christopher Newport spotted land after four months at sea. He led a landing party of 30 men from the ships the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery to explore the shore.
“There wee landed and discovvered a little way, but wee could find nothing worth the speaking of, but faire meaddowes and godly tall Trees, with such Fresh-waters running through the woods, as I was almost ravished at the first sight therof.” (Purchas His Pilgrimes, London 1625)
After several days of resting and exploring the region, the party decided to seek a more sheltered location inland for their settlement. They selected a marshy site 60 miles away and founded Jamestown.
“I was almost ravished at the first sight therof.”
– Captain Christopher Newport, Jamestown
The settlers named the cape in honor of Prince Henry, the eldest son of James I. They erected a wooden cross on the site where they first set foot on Virginia soil. The cross was replaced with a granite marker in 1935. It was moved inland due to shoreline erosion in 1981.
The Battle of the Capes
That wasn’t the last historic event that Cape Henry would see. The epic Battle of the Virginia Capes was waged in the waters directly off Cape Henry during the Revolutionary War.
On September 5, 1781 a British fleet en route to deliver supplies to Cornwallis in Yorktown tried to enter the Chesapeake Bay. It was met by a French fleet at the mouth of the bay, and battle ensued. Fortunately for America, the French fleet won under the command of Rear Admiral Comte François de Grasse. It was a major victory for the patriots, and the British Royal Navy’s only major defeat of the 18th century. Just six weeks later, Cornwallis surrendered. A statute honors de Grasse at Cape Henry Memorial Park.
Fort Story and Train History
All of these historical points of interest are located within an active military base called Joint Expeditionary Base-Fort Story. Established in 1914, it’s primarily a training facility.
Another little-known aspect of Cape Henry is its history of rail lines. An electric rail line was opened from Norfolk to the cape in 1902, encouraging the development of a resort village. A brick passenger depot that opened in 1904 still stands today. When the fort opened, new track was laid and later used to transport artillery and ammunition along the coast. Commercial and passenger trains stopped running in 1947.
Visiting the Lighthouse
Cape Henry Memorial Park is part of the National Park Service’s Colonial National Historical Park. Visitors can to climb the old Cape Henry’s 191 steps and admire the views of the bay and Atlantic Ocean from the observation deck. Dune talks, walking tours, and other events are also available.
To access the park, visitors must enter Fort Story and provide a valid ID. A shuttle will transport visitors from the fort entrance to the old lighthouse. Review the rules and regulations ahead of your visit.
According to our incredible tour guide (my sister-in-law Katie!), this is the only place you’ll see two lighthouses next to each other! Typically the previous lighthouse is removed, but old Cape Henry was preserved due to its history. We are so glad that the lighthouse remains and welcomes visitors today!
Cape Henry Lighthouse
583 Atlantic Ave.
Fort Story, VA 23459
Sources
- “Cape Henry Lighthouse Tower Reopened to the Public.” Preservation Virginia, 15 Apr. 2019.
- “Chesapeake Bay: US Lighthouse Society.” Chesapeake Bay | US Lighthouse Society, 2 June 2018.
- Dean, Catherine E. The Old Cape Henry Lighthouse. Preservation Virginia, 2006.
- Parker, Stacy. “Railroads to Cape Henry in Virginia Beach Get Their Place in History.” Pilotonline.com, The Virginian-Pilot, 4 Aug. 2017.
Jessica Mlinaric founded Urban Explorer in 2010 to inspire curious travelers by highlighting history, culture, and hidden gems in Chicago and beyond. She is the author of ‘Secret Chicago’ and ‘Chicago Scavenger.’ Jessica has visited 20+ countries and 30+ U.S. states. She has more than 16 years of experience as a marketing strategist and works as a freelance writer and photographer.
